A Brief History of
Jewelry
Students of the natural sciences are in agreement when they
say that of all the creatures in the animal kingdom, only humans
seek to adorn themselves. Even as far in the past as primitive man,
jewelry took on this role in a variety of forms. Small objects were
of primary importance, with some examples being found in the early
Neolithic strata of the caverns in mas d’avil. It was here that many
pierces stags’ teeth were discovered, often still in the shape of a
necklace with its holding twine long since
disintegrated. (Jewelry objects have now been found in pre-historic Africa
that date back about 75,000
years.)
Closely related to
the human need for ornamentation was the use of jewelry as amulets endowed
with magical powers. For a true understanding of the growth and history of
the importance of jewelry and precious stones, one has to be aware of the
indelible belief that precious stones could affect the fortunes of the
wearer.
Jewelry was made
with certain convictions in mind, to meld into, conform to and strengthen
beliefs. This was particularly true when religions began to form an
important sociological bond.
Early in its
inception, jewelry was associated with religious rites. Gold and jewels
were used as gifts for the maintenance of worship. In accordance with this
began the presumption that benefits could be derived from their wear and
soon began the development of a complex network of fictitious powers being
attributed to them. Curiously, many of these legends surrounding the
benefits of certain stones were generally held all over the world. Gold
and certain gems common to many parts of the globe were believed to yield
similar virtues.
Jewellers as artists are
evident throughout history. The art has been practiced in almost every
condition in which civilizations have existed. It is most plausible that
the metal worker, with an advance in knowledge, became the jeweller. As
the more malleable metals were wrought into rings, bracelets, and armlets,
it is conceivable that the need to posses small stones for the charm they
retained made the metalworker turn to setting these stones in his or her
metal ornaments . Although the methods were primitive, the fastening of
stones became an integral part of the craft.
The stones
of ancients, although considered "precious" to their owners, are not
in the "precious stone" category of modern
times.
In jewelry circles
today and in the recent past, there are considered only four truly
precious stones: the diamond, the ruby, the emerald and the blue sapphire.
Among the earliest known treasures of the pharaohs, emeralds, rubies and
sapphires were seldom used, while turquoise, jasper, lapis lazuli,
carnelian and rock crystal played a substantial role. Since color was all
important, diamonds were quite unknown. The use of gemstones and precious
metals during this time were not limited, but spread lavishly about
wherever ornament was desired.
Soon jewelry
advanced from a simple ornamental or amulet stance to a more practical
one. Jewels became used as a symbol of rank, wealth and social standing.
When taking on this role, they became an investment of marketable value.
This economic aspect of easily liquidating these possessions became an
essential part of the politics of Europe when Francis I instituted the
crown jewels as legal entity. For his successors these jewels were often
used during the religious wars to guarantee foreign loans.
The three basic
roles that jewelry has played, the ornament, the amulet and the symbol of
wealth, have remained constant to the present time. This paper will
attempt to trace these developments, particularly in the growth and affect
on the western world. Although this is not a definitive work, it will give
the reader a broad background on some of the more popular methods of
creating, legends and both customs and whims of style that have been
combined to give us a history of jewelry.
